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Essential Ticks For The North West Cragsperson No 2 The Warm-Up

Gaz Marshall on The Warm-Up

Now, if you get talking to the locals about your amazing week of climbing in the the North West, you'll inevitably describe your list of fantastic three and four star classic routes and their stunning locations.

Diabaig Pillar, Angel Face, Fionn Buttress (the local is looking a bit unenthusiastic)
Dragon, Gob (the local's expression is starting to glaze over)
Open Secret, the Old Man of Stoer, (the local's eyelids are starting to droop)
Westering Home, Bloodlust, (they're definitely nodding off)
The Warm-Up at Am Fasgadh. THE WARM-UP!

And so a slow hour goes by while they wax lyrical and mime the moves again and again and again...

So the Warm-Up. It's rubbish. Short, only four bolts long. Mean. Nasty. No proper finishing hold. Originally 6c+, it's slowly crept up to 7b, but still folk complain. Infamously a strong Scottish sport climber was on it after a very successful trip to Spain. He'd managed to on-sight 8a, but didn't think he'd done any moves as hard as the Warm-Up.

Here's the beta. Typically the ascent shown is indicative of the locals' over-personalised relationship with the crag. And grabbing the chain definitely doesn't count!

The Warm Up Am Fasgadh from North West Outdoors on Vimeo.

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Black Wednesday Storm

Made a visit to Stoer yesterday to maybe watch the Old Man topple over. Some serious swell being driven in by a huge low pressure system. Decided to leave the surf board at home.

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Obscure Gems No 2 The Flood

The Flood 6B+ is a nifty wee problem tucked away in the maze of boulders at Reiff-in-the Woods. Tucked away on the the back of the Haven Block, it was spotted and brushed-up in 2011 by local bouldering aficionado Nigel Holmes. It looked good, but there were two problems. One, it was a pretty wet winter and the crucial finger crack was prone to seepage and two, a very sharp pebble needs to be grasped firmly. 

Nigel solved the first issue by unleashing his legendary perseverance, while the second obstacle was overcome by repeatedly pinching the head of a roofing tack to build up his pain tolerance. The rest is history.

the flood from North West Outdoors on Vimeo.

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Guest blogger: Murdo Jamieson

Local climber Murdo Jamieson has had a productive summer whilst fighting his affliction with FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out). In the spring he and Iain Small managed the first ascent of an amazing looking line on the equally stunning Carnmore crag up here in North West Scotland.

We wanted to hear more about this ascent and Murdo was happy to give us the low down.

100 Years Of Solitude E8 6c ***

Being strong minded for once, I declined a few invites out to Pabbay and Mingulay this year.  Time marched on and the departure of these trips became closer.  Due to the power of social media, I became well aware that everyone seemed to be going out this year.  Instantly my FOMO kicked in.  Anyway, who would want to go to an island that had big overhanging cliffs, sound rock, stunning lines and all that.

Thankfully my good friend Iain Small wasn't going either.  The good thing about Iain is, he doesn't get FOMO.  He just gives it.  Anyway, on the Friday morning of one of the trips I had declined, I found myself lathered in sweat, cursing and swearing as I cycled on a bike too small for me with a big heavy rucksack on my back into Carnmore.  I was with Iain but he appeared to be enjoying the scenery and was always ahead.  Mountain biking is shit I thought.   Maybe getting the boat out to the islands would have been better.  Slight FOMO alarm bells were ringing in the distance.

It had been years since I had been to Carnmore so I was pretty psyched to just do the classic harder routes.  We arrived at the 5 star shit hole (the barn), had a quick bite to eat, rehydrated then marched to the top of the crag.  We did the 'Orange Bow' and 'Wilderness' which were very good.  After the routes were done, it was like 9.30pm or something so I was all set to have my dinner and a brew.  Iain, wasn't.  He asked me if it was cool if he rapped to check a potential new line out.  So whilst he was doing that, I was busy trying to keep warm by doing star jumps, push ups and generally running around trying not to fall over the edge of the crag as a bitter wind was blowing over.

This is turning into a long story, so I'll speed it up.  Saturday morning. Iain tried his new line, fell off a few times.  Almost killed me by knocking a foot hold off that cracked my helmet open.  He retreated.  We did 'Death Wolf' which is pretty good value by the way.  Not a pushover by any means.  We cycled out, I was raging.  Fell off my bike a few times.  Even more rage.  Glad to get back to the car, I was pleased to know that I had no reason to go back any time soon.  Little did I know I was going to repeat the feat and do the exact same cycle again in a few day’s time!

By Monday morning I had recovered and my mental scars had healed over.  Already my rat was hungry again.  I was meant to be shadowing a potential employer on Skye by doing some hillwalking on the Cuillin Ridge the following weekend.  Great I thought.  A day or two later, I realised the weather was going to be nice again in the North West.  Since cycling out, I harbored a deep psyche to get back to Carnmore and try this new line with Iain.  So after some lame excuses to this employer, I was straight on the phone to Iain making plans to get back to Carnmore.

Same process as above.  Cycled in on the Friday. Rage.  This time it was damp, overcast and midge.  The forecast was for it to clear by mid-afternoon.  To be fair, it did so I can’t complain.  We lugged the stuff up the hill and almost died in the heat and humidity.  Iain rapped the line again and had a play on a top rope.  I had a chance after to rap it and try the moves.  Ah, this is pretty hard!  Instantly I felt a bit demoralised.  I didn't realise how hard it was.  Small crimps, far apart, poor feet.  Even after the crux there's another pretty hard sequence.  Hmm, have I wasted my time?  I'll never lead that.  But Iain reminded me that the crag was in the baking sun, I was dehydrated and tired from the cycle.  Anyway, after my mackerel and cous cous dinner at our free apartment, I lay in bed running over the moves.  Ach maybe its not so hard.

What a difference a day makes.  Iain rapped it and top roped it cleanly first go.  I rapped it, top roped it first go as well.  Shit! Its on!  Hmm, the crux is very runout with massive fall potential, I better not think about it too much.  So, Iain racked up.  We got down there, I sorted the ropes.  Iain set off up the wall.  He arrived at the niche and invested some time into making sure the nest of kit was solid.  He gave his cue and was off. I stood up, then suddenly the fear came over me.  I have never been so stressed belaying.  He launched up the wall making some grunts with a final power grunt to get into the big break.  Thread clipped, cams in, he only had the upper wall to do which could easily spit you off.  He dispatched it in good style then rapped it to get the kit out and handed it over to me. 

My turn.  Kit sorted, ropes flaked, I started off up.  First runner in, I need a shit.  FFS!  So I down climbed then found a spot in the vertical vegetation below the belay.  Right, t-shirt tucked in, trousers rolled up, rock shoes cleaned, now I look the part.  I arrived at the niche and repeated the same process Iain went through in equalising everything.  Bombproof.  Shaking out, psyching myself up.  When is the right time to go?  I don't know so I went for it. Before I knew it I was at the big break clipping the thread. I looked down at the ropes waving between me and the last runners in the niche.  You would have gone miles if you blew the stab into the break!   Hanging out, shaking out, I absorbed my surroundings.  Lochs, sea, mountains, sun, cloud, breeze...perfection.  However, I still have the tricky wall above.  I got that over with too and rocked onto the upper slab just below the top.  What felt like HVS in the morning on a top rope turned into what felt like E2 on the lead!  Topping out and being welcomed by A' Mhaighdean is a moment I will never forget. 

I rapped it and shook Iain's hand.  We finished the day off with Fian Grooves, or the first 2 pitches at least.  I was meant to do the top 5c pitch but somehow managed to find myself scrambling up the top of Fionn Buttress.  Oh, what a shame.   You know whats coming now, the cycle out.  But this time in the pissing rain.  I don't care, I've have just climbed the best route I'll ever do in my life!

I started off explaining my potential FOMO about not going to the Islands.  Did I get it?  Of course not.  Would I have got it if I failed?  I would like to think not.  Even our first weekend in there, those three routes we did were gems.  Its so rare to get a the correct partner, weather and conditions for Carnmore.  All of a sudden the Islands are now the in place to be thanks to a UK Climbing article.  Reading the blogs, it sounded like everyone had a good time, good social scene (50 people at one point on one island) and lots of brilliant climbing.  I’m not sure I would have enjoyed it as much as I have done in previous years.  

Murdo is supported by Mountain Boot Company and Rab. 

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Torridon Bouldering Update

Now that the midges and heat have gone, the Torridon bouldering season has kicked off. Here's a few new problems and grade changes since the guidebook came out. If you don't have the guidebook then it won't make sense, but you DO have the guidebook don't you?

Torridon Bouldering Guide

Celtic Area

18 Slot Wall One 6A+

27A The Tight Line 6A Sitter

Start at a good low jug right of the Red Groove. Go straight up to a pair of holds, reach left and make a long reach up to slopers.

28A Sharp 6C Sitter

Start on a low hold left of Red Groove, grab a sharp little layaway and head straight up to a jug finish.

32A Drop the Pilot  6A+

A low right-to-left traverse of Happy Pilots wall. Start on jammed block and keep lowish past a triangular pinch to finish up Zig-Zag.

38 Tiger Cave 6A+

40A Spiral Lip 5 Sitter

Start sitting on the block under Hanging Arete. Follow lip leftwards spiraling round to finish on top of the boulder.

54 Spaceship Wall Right-hand 6B Sitter

The sitter adds a couple of good moves.

55 Another Pit 7A Sitter

Start crouched on the square boulder embedded in the ground, undercut the main block and make a burly couple of moves into the stand up start.

Another Pit Sitter

55A Challenging Times 6C

From Another Pit go rightwards along the crag until just past a rowan tree. There is a short wall above a spikey boulder and patioed landing. Climb the wall rightwards with a reachy move off a small right hand layaway.

Challenging Times

55B Not So Challenging 5+ Sitter

Just right of Challenging Times go up the edge of the wall starting from an undercut layaway.

60 Potential Seven 7B

No longer a project.

Potential Seven

The Ship Area
The Prow Boulder

86A The Ashes 5

Straight up the high slab just right of Phoenix Nights. Start from the handy boulder.

Tetrahedron

87A Found but Lost 6A+ Sitter

At the back of the Tetrahedron block is a cave. Climb the short burly roof on the Liathach side on good sloping holds and great grippy rock.

Terrace Wall

94A Super Lank Morpho Arete 7A+

The curving arête right of Super Lank Morpho Groove. Go up to undercuts then head up and right.

Super Lank Morpho Arete

Another Level

110A Fifty Days of Grey 7A Sitter

The slightly overhanging left wall of the bay. Sit start on a low juggy ledge, crimp up to join and cross the diagonal crack (Bay Crack) and finish direct (easier and highball). (Richie Betts 2013)

Indian Winter

119 Indian Winter 6B+

119A Fecal Transplant 5+ Sitter

The rounded right arete of the wall.

Angel Walls

128A Highland Council Hooker 5 Sitter

Start in the wee cave right of Biscuits. Make a move to big holds, hand traverse right and crank up the wall right of Big Ledge.

142 Morning Afterglow 6B+ Sitter

The short slopey left to right rising rib at the very right end of the angel walls. Superb rock, some of the best in Torridon.

Morning Afterglow

145A Otter Wall Arete 6A

The airy left-hand arête of Otter’s wall.

152A Dinosaur Arete 6C

Crouching start with left hand on the arete and right hand on an undercut.

153A Quickly Over 6A+ Sitter

Well worth doing. Sitting start at base of The Hook. Span right to join the original problem.

Quickly Over Sitter

156A Putting the Holes In 6B Sitter

A clean open wall and slab a few metres right of More E2 than V2. Start in a small niche and climb slightly right then back left through the break and slab above.

Putting the Holes In

156B Lie of the Land 6C

The shorter steeper wall right again, starting from a flat grassy platform. Start right hand undercut and left hand gaston, up to better holds and finish direct.

159 Bronwen’s Collar 6A

In the jumble of boulders under Lie of the Land is a hanging slab with a rising left-to-right diagonal break. Go straight up from the left end of the break.

160 Lonely Outlier 6A+ Sitter

A short slopey block a couple of hundred metres across the vague valley in front of the dinosaur area, close to the Liathach path. Start matched on a rail on the left side of the block, traverse right, move up to the lip and mantel over.

Up the Hill Area

15A Is that Your Arête, Helen? 4+

Below Stokes Croft to the east is a nice stand-alone pillar shaped boulder near the edge of the cliff band. Climb the South West Arête.

Southside

There's a nice  new slab problem on the way up to the Essence. No name, no grade, but a video. Southside Slab

Annat

5. Chimney Breast 6C

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Ardmair Update

People seem to have a love/hate relationship with Ardmair. Many seem to dislike its physical style, complaining about tough grades and gritty, skin-tearing rock. Well come on, just suck it up. Since the last guide over fifty new routes have added, the vast majority being the work of the local crag guardians; Andy and Jeni Cunningham. Most of the new routes have been repeated so there shouldn't be too many sandbags lurking about.

Murdo Jamieson on Galgael

Prawn Walls

This is the small squat buttress encountered first on the approach.

1 Langoustine E1 5c 8m 2009

The crack on the left side of the buttress. A steep start over a roof leads to easier broken ground.

2 King Prawn E2 5c 8m 2009

The wall to the right of Langoustine passing a blocky roof on it’s right.

3 Dublin Bay VS 5a* 8m 2009

The central groove staying left of the bulge.

4 Dublin Bay Right-hand Hard Severe 5a 8m 2009

Start as for Dublin Bay, but go right of the bulge.

5 Shrimp Severe 4b 6m 2009

A short route up a crack on the right side of the buttress.

Fish Farm Walls
Peace at Last E2 5c* Watch out for a loose block on pitch three.

Cod Wall

6 20 Years After E3 5c** 25m 2009

In the centre of the lower wall is a shallow groove. Climb this to a weakness in the roof above. Go over the roof, then pass to the left of a hanging fin and continue to the top.

7 Jammy Dodger E3 5c* 25m 2009

Start just right of 20 Years After and go up to a hanging ramp that leads rightwards to the roof. Go over the roof then follow a thin crack leftwards past a steepening to slabbier ground.

7A Thresher E1 5b* 25m 2010

Between Jammy Dodger and Hammerhead.  Climb middle of buttress right of Jammy Dodger to the big ledge.  Move left and pull rightwards through the bulge onto face and ‘weave straight up’ via least resistance.

Hammerhead is E2 5b* 20m Worth doing despite some crumbly rock at the start.

7B Dunderheid E4 6a* 20m 2014

A spectacular right-hand finish to Hammerhead through the twin cracked roof. Follow Hammerhead until a couple of metres below the roof, traverse hard right, then climb up to the right-hand crack. Move left and reach blindly over the roof to good holds. Further good holds lead to the top.

Laggavoulin Tower

This is the small tower left of Laggavoulin Buttress

8 Pure Malt Very Difficult* 8m 2005

This takes the groove and crack in the left tide of the tower.

9 Cheeky Little Number E1 5b* 10m 2007

Start as for Pure Malt but continue up the front face of the Tower.

10 Real Blend HVS 5b 8m 2005

A line up the right side of the tower.

Laggavoulin Buttress

Bowmore Severe

10A More Bowmore Very Difficult  25m 2010

From the top of Bowmore (either climb Bowmore or walk up the descent path at the top of Laggavoulin Buttress), step left 3m and follow the obvious corner to a small ledge at 7m. Climb the face with good holds and protection for 8m. Pull through heather and rock 5m to a recess (20m). Head to the right and scramble behind a large boulder to reach the top of The Raven on Monster Buttress; pull through heather to reach the top of the crag.

Clyneleish Very Difficult

Laggavoulin Severe

Over the Quota is E1 5b and climbs a right-facing corner rather than a left-facing one.

Monster Buttress

Le Pontiff For the pedants out there, this is spelt with two ‘f’s.

11 Monster Mash E1 5b 30m 2007

The long bulging groove right of Le Pontiff, finishing through a capping roof.

12 Velociraptor E4 5c* 30m 2007

A good route despite some poor rock at the start. Start at a honeycombed pillar at the bottom of The Raven’s fault. Go up the right side of the pillar and over a bulge rightwards into a groove. Head for the rightmost of the three ramps and climb this, joining Shaker Loops near the top.

Murdo Jamieson on Velociraptor

13 Ogre E4 6a*** 30m 2007

Fast becoming a classic. Climb a few moves up Loose End, then move left into a scoop which leads to a good ledge (junction with Les Rosbif). Follow Les Rosbif until able to pull left onto a steep pillar. Go up the pillar via cracks and bulges to the top. A really good long route nicely exposed in its upper reaches.

14 Loose End E3 6a* 30m 2006

Start directly below the short corner into which Shaker Loops traverses left. Climb a crack direct to the corner and finish up Shaker Loops.

15 Shakedown E2/3 5c* 30m 2007

A direct variation on Shaker Loops. It’s bit loose below the break, but the upper section is good.

16 Arc-en-ciel E2 5c** 25m 2007

Follow the narrow green pillar left of Gravity’s Rainbow, joining that route for a short section in the middle.

17 Noble Savage E4 5c** 30m 2007

A bold line on wall right of Gravity’s Rainbow. Start just left of The Brahan Seer and climb up to a ledge at the base of a slabby corner. Go diagonally left up the wall, passing a worrying flake, to gain a ledge. Finish with difficulty by going rightwards up hanging ramps.

The Raingoose is E3 5c*.

17A Tubby’s Tremendous Trundles E2 5b* 35m 2014

Start up the The Raingoose. Where that route pulls over a bulge into a corner, move right to good holds on the arete and climb up to the sloping ledge. Above is a right-slanting groove. Gain a ledge below this and go up a slab rightwards to easier ground (RPs needed). Finish up cracks. Belay well back.

18 Absolution E5 6a** 30m 2006

The obvious line between Ignorant Iguana and Big Foot. Start up a groove to a sloping ledge, then follow tough cracks above. Finish up Ignorant Iguana Direct.

19 Little Toe E4 5c* 20m 2004

The left hand finish to Big Foot. From half-way up the upper wall of Big Foot, swing left and go up a strenuous curving crack to gain the left side of the foot shaped block. Finish straight up the crack-line above (Iguana Direct).

20 Soor Plums E5 6a* 20m 2006

The arête right of Summer Isles City. Using a thin crack, climb the wall directly below the arête to gain a ledge. Continue up the technical arête, and then finish up the final crack of Summer Isles City. Slightly eliminate, but good.

Murdo Jamieson on Soor Plums

21 All-Day-Buckfast E4 6b** 20m 2007

The arête right of Breakfast Corner. Climb Breakfast Corner to a large flake, and then traverse right to good holds on arête. Unleash a big move to a pocket, then continue to a ledge. Finish up the pleasant cracked wall above.

21A All-Day Corner Link E1 5b*  20m 2010

Links first half of Breakfast Corner into top half of All-Day-Buckfast via a higher horizontal break than that of ADB.

21B Pissing on Dad’s Project E6 6b**  20m 2011
The hanging podded crack just left of Little Monster. Needs a good supply of small cams. finish up the easier wall above.

Lawrence Hughes on the FA of Pissing on Dad's Project

Dancing Buttress

22 Totem Pole Direct Start E1 5c 8m 2006

The obvious direct start.

Just Add Lib is hard for the grade, perhaps E1.

Arapiles Wall

23 Watchtower Left-hand E4 6a* 20m 2007

A thin flake crack at the left end of the wall leads to a ledge. Pull boldly over the narrow roof above and finish up the left side of the tower.

24 Watchtower Crack E4 6a* 20m 2007

Follow a flake crack above the left side of a hanging shattered block to the ledge, then continue up the right side of the tower.

25 Land Down Under E5 6a* 20m 2007

The thin right trending crack springing from the right end of the shattered block gives bold climbing to the ledge. Aim for the hanging crack above and follow it to the top.

25A Under the Watchtower E4 5c** 30m 2014

A good sustained combination of the previous three routes. Start up Watchtower Left-hand, span right into the flake crack of Watchtower Crack, then trend up and right from  the ledge to finish up the crack of Land Down Under.

Ian Taylor on Under the Watchtower

26 Aussie Rules E4 6a** 20m 2007

Probably the best route on the wall. Starting just left of centre, go over a bulge then up a wide crack to the ledge. Go up, then slightly left before pulling right into steep cracks. The right-hand start, avoiding the wide crack, is slightly harder.

27 Billabong E4 6b* 20m 2006

A boulder problem up the central dog-leg crack leads to the ledge. Step left, then follow a right trending line to finish up steep cracks.

27A Buckle Up (Enjoy the Ride) E6 6b*  20m 2011
Start up Billabong then sidle right along the ledge until above the thin diagonal crack in the lower tier. Tackle the bold line directly above climbing through the bulge via a crack (crux) to ledge.  Finish direct.

28 Operation Brumby E3 6a** 20m 2007

Follow a line up the wall left of Antipodean Cruise to a high ledge. Finish leftwards up a crack.

29 Walkabouts E3 6a* 20m 2007

Climb the crack in the wall left of Biological Warfare to a ledge. Finish up the left side of the arête above.

30 Maralinga E6 6a** 15m 2005

A bold route up the very steep pillar at the right end of Arapiles Wall. Start just right of Biological Warfare at a short crack. Follow a line slightly rightwards to a big flake hold below a dubious thread (ok to lower off!). Go diagonally left past the thread to reach good holds and a big break. Finish by easier climbing up the left arête of the

31 Wizard of Oz E2 5b* 15m 2006

Start at the right side of the Maralinga pillar and go up a groove to a large break. Move left along the break and finish up a narrow corner.

32 Outback VS 4c* 15m 2006

Start right of Wizard of Oz and climb to a holly tree. Move left into slabby left facing corner to finish.

Beast Buttress

Please note the walk off from the ledge is to the right, not the left. Also note that this buttress is now full!

33 Tinsel Town E6 6b** 20m 2005

A route between Market Day and On the Western Skyline. Start just left of the Direct Start to On the Western Skyline at a thin crack. Boulder up the thin crack, then easier climbing leads to the good ledge. On the wall above, just right of Market Day, is a short flake. From the flake bold and insecure moves up and rightwards lead to better holds. Step left and climb directly to easier ground. Head pointed without any side runners in Market Day.

34 Galgael  E5 6a* 20m 2007

Start right of the Direct Start to On the Western Skyline and follow a thin crack to a break. Move left and follow the flake of On the Western Skyline to the thread, then step right and climb straight to the top. A bit gritty at the final section.

Neart nan Gaidheal is left of (not right of) Unleash the Beast. It's a great 'first' E5 as it would only get HVS in Yorkshire.

Beastmaker is E5 6a*

Unleash the Maker E5 6a*** 25m
Linking the start of Beastmaker into the top of Unleash the Beast gives a really good route. Varied and well protected, it's possibly the best on the buttress.

35 Timorous Beastie E6 6b** 25m 2005

Start up Beastmaster. Where that route takes a short diagonal crack into Unleash the Beast, reach up and left to a good hold and make hard moves through a poor break to gain a flake. Finish up and right to gain the top of Unleash the Beast. Head pointed.

36 Mark of the Beast Link E4 6a* 25m 2007

Start up Unleash the Beast, then go straight up the wall on the right (following Beastmaster) to a large break, move left and up a wide crack to finish.

Tess Fryer on Unleash the Beast

Edinburgh Rock

37 Child’s Play HVS 5b 10m 2006

Take a line up the cracked pillar on the left side of the buttress.

Roof Buttress
37A Last Laugh VS 4c 10m 2010The next crack to the left of Jammy Dodger, past a small holly to an off-width crack in a corner.

37B Jammy Dodger (Another One!) VS 4c 10m 2010
The jam crack to the left of Offside and the groove above.

38 Offside VS 5b 10m 2007

From just left of A Bit on the Side take a short steep jam crack to a ledge, then finish direct.

Acrimonious Acrobat Very good, but probably not worth ****

39 Sunstroke Cold Start E2 5b* (overall) 8m 2007

Start just left of 99 and go diagonally leftwards up the wall to join Sunstroke.

40 How Soon is Now? E7 6c* 18m 2006

One of Ardmair’s hardest routes taking the fading diagonal crack-line up the wall left of Siesta. Start up the left facing groove of 99 to gain the crack. Follow it easily, then use a hollow flake and side pulls to gain a thin break and crucial protection (Friend 00, hard to place and two RP 1s). From here, hard sustained climbing leads slightly right up the immaculate orange wall to the top.  Red pointed with the crucial protection in place.

41 Boneman E4 6a* 10m 2007

This is the short crack in the wall right of Drinks on the Terrace.

42 Relax and Swing, Obtuse Start E1 5c 10m 2007

Starting just left of Skeletons, follow black rock before heading left to gain the start of Relax and Swing.

43 Two Ton Ted Does it Again E5 6b** 20m 2009

The hanging crack left of Skeletons was one of Ardmair’s last great problems. Start up the Obtuse Start to Relax and Swing, then struggle up the very steep crack above.

Ian Taylor on Two Ton Ted Does it Again

44 Maisy E1 5b* 25m 2007

Start up Stone Canyon to the big ledge, then head rightwards to join Kidz on the Block and finish direct through the capping overhangs.

45 Dangerous Dancer Variation E4 6b 25m 2007

Climb Dangerous Dancer until over the initial overhang then move left to another crack-line and follow this to the ledge. Finish up the corner of the original route.

Dangerous Dancer is E3 5c***

Exasperated Escapologist Direct is E4 6a***

45A Exasperated Escapologist (Houdini’s Finish) E4 6a* 25m 2011

Climb Exasperated Escapologist Direct for 6m, then make a hard move right into the right-hand crack. Follow this pulling rightwards onto a juniper ledge. Finish up the fine flake crack and easier ground above.

45B Nerve Damage E7/8 6c*** 25m 2011
Well named - an incredible pitch up the obvious blank seamed headwall between Cruel World and Colour Co-ordinated. Desperate, insecure and intricate climbing above tricky micro-gear would make this a very hard onsight, the upgrade from E7 may be conservative! Climb Cruel World and swing right to the ledge. Tricky moves lead to the nose and gear (strenuous to place), then more hard moves gain a standing position and micro-gear (blind to place). Powerful and technical cruxes above lead left and up to good holds just below the top. Pull over with a lot of relief.

46 Punk Rock E3 6a* 8m 2007

This is a direct start to Skinhead Violence up a hanging corner just right of the original crack.

47 Blood Sport E3 5c* 12m 2007

Another new start to Skinhead Violence taking a bulging jam crack just left of Let it Bleed.

Let it Bleed is E2 5c

Friends Retrieval climbs a right-facing corner rather than a left-facing one.

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