Ardmair Crag Bouldering

South Facing, NH 117 987 

Ian Taylor on Ian's Problem

Although not the best bouldering in the area, Ardmair Crag’s big plus point is in the sheltered ‘almost ever-dry’ Arapiles Wall, which allows bouldering in showery weather. Most of the action is at the base of the main crag, but there’s a few undocumented things in the jumble of boulders passed on the approach. The rock quality is variable. Most of the problems are solid, but ‘off piste’ can be a bit gritty.

Take the A835 north out of Ullapool for just over 3 miles and park on the west side of the road, at the entrance to the fish farm (NH 115 987). Cross the road and walk 50m east, then hop over the fence and take the path up the north side of the stream. After about 100m, the path takes a leftwards detour around three big boulders which have a few problems. The best is the rounded arête nearest the stream; Big Black Snake 6A** Sitter. The third boulder used to have a great problem up a hanging arête, but one sad day the boulder keeled over. Luckily no one was squashed by the twenty tonne topple.

Big Black Snake

Following the path steeply uphill for 10 minutes to the crag, one eventually comes to a flat area below a big foot-shaped block. Here there is a reasonable warm-up traverse and a few up problems. A little further along, just past an open gully is a steep attractive rib between two groove lines. There are two variations on the rib. The Faith 7A+** Sitter climbs the rib to big slopers then escapes into and down climbs the left-hand groove, while Interpretive Dance 7B** Sitter continues up and right from the slopers to a finish on big holds, then down climbs the right-hand groove. Be careful with the blocky landing on the latter.

Ian Taylor on The Faith

Arapiles Wall

Continuing rightwards, the path drops down to a sheltered multi-coloured wall. This is Arapiles Wall. Who would have thought that the internationally famous cliff in Southeast Australia would have been named after a small wall of gritty sandstone, hidden in the depths of the Scottish Highlands

1 Arapiles Traverse 6A**

Traverse the wall from a big layaway on the right to a ledge on the left, with a drop down mid way. The footholds on the left end are open to interpretation. Same grade in the opposite direction.

Tess Fryer on Arapiles Traverse

2 Old Man’s Variation 6A+*

Take a higher line of holds in the middle section, reversing some of Aussie Rules to join the original line.

3 Aussie Rules 5* Sitter

From a sitting start at a fat layaway go up the left hand crack to finish at a large jutting hold.

4 Billabong 7A** Sitter

Starting with the right hand at the bottom of a sloping pod and the left on a tiny layaway, make hard moves to gain the central zigzag crack then up this to finish on a jug at 4m. 6B from standing.

5 Low Traverse Project

Stay low all the way, using footholds just above the ground. Was originally 6C, but needs re-climbed due to hold loss.

6 Lawrence’s Crack 7A***

The thin diagonal crack on the right is a great problem, with shallow finger locks, slopers, poor feet and a satisfying lurch to a high jug. Shuffling along Arapiles Traverse then finishing up the crack is about French 7c.

Eadan Cunningham on Lawrence's Crack

7 Ian’s Problem 7A**

Start right of the crack. A long move from crimps to a hard-to-hit hold, then easier moves to the ledge.

8 The Link 7B*

Link the start of Ian’s Problem into the high jug on Lawrence’s Crack via a sloper.

9 The Fountain 6C*

Go straight up from a big left hand layaway.

10 The Rightmost 6B+*

The wall left of the descent gives surprisingly tricky moves via breaks, finishing with a long last move. You have to be tall or dynamic to reach the starting holds. The Sitter comes in from the right and is 7A+.

Beast Buttress

The next buttress further along has a steep, lower wall with an obvious crack on its left.

11 Stork’s Crack 6B+*

The crack. Finish with hands on the ledge, and then jump off.

12 Bettsbop Project 

A long dyno from snappy crimps to the ledge.

Richie Betts trying the project

Edinburgh Rock

This is the next buttress along to the right.

13 Andy’s Traverse 6B+**

Traverse the pumpy wall in either direction. The right-hand section might take a bit of working out .

14 Low Version 6C*

Stay below the break on the left end of the wall.

15 Steep For Ten Seconds 7A*

This highball problem finishes on the ledge. Down climb carefully leftwards.

16 Wall 5+*

The wall left of the niche, finishing at the break.

Obscure Gems No 1 Lawrence's Crack

First, in an occasional series of excellent local boulder problems that no-one has ever heard of, is Lawrence's Crack 7A. This is hidden in plain sight at the well known trad venue of Ardmair Crag. Don't be mis-led by how easy young local Calum makes it look, as it's actually quite tricky. 

Crack from North West Outdoors on Vimeo.

A topo to this excellent sheltered venue is on the way, so check back here next week. 

New Route at Goat Crag

Bolts going in

Now that the rocks are warming up and the sun has been shinning, it's new route season again in the paradise that is Northwest Scotland. First up was Lawrence with an obvious link at Goat Crag. Gap Toothed Gypsy 7b+ climbs the start of the four star Goat Prow, quests straight up the crimpy wall above, then moves left into Mac Talla with some nice technical moves.

Andy Wilby on the new route. Pic by Murdoch Jamieson

Rubha Dunan

Rubha Dunan

NC 020067

Foreboding Pleasures

The Rubha Dunan cliffs are situated about 20minutes from the road, on a small headland near Achiltbuie NC 020067. They are about 10-15m high and although the rock is a bit softer than Reiff, they are a pleasant, quick drying sun-trap. Most of the routes are not affected by the tide unless the sea is very rough. From a parking area at NC 034073 follow a signposted path, past a broch, and out to the headland. The impressive Tumbledown Wall is reached first. Walk over the top of this to reach the Wake Wall area. The best descent scrambles down a chimney at the west end of the wall. Left of Wake Wall a number of shorter routes have been done. Full route descriptions are in SMC Journal 2008.

Wake Wall 

1. Descent Chimney Arête D
2. Splashdown VS 4c*
3. Fetid Pool Crack VS 4c*
4. It’s got to be a Diff D*
5. Waking and Watching VD
6. Crossover VS 4b*
7. Time and Tide VS 4c**
8. Spinal Tap VS 4b**
9. Kicking Horse E1 5b*
10. Wake Up VS 4c**
11. Wake Wall HVS 5b*
12. Lateral Thinking VS 5a**
13. Foreboding Pleasures E1 5b**

The smooth impressive wall to the right of Foreboding Pleasures is known as Tumbledown Wall. Unfortunately the rock is not as good as the Wake Wall area. One E1 has been recorded at its left end and the corner at its right end is VS.

Ardmair Beach Bouldering and topo

Ardmair Beach

NH 107978 West facing, Partially Tidal

Just a short hop north of Ullapool, this small quality sandstone crag lies in a lovely setting at the south end of the stony beach at Ardmair bay. It has some good roof problems and is the kingdom of the knee bar, the toe hook, the foot cam and every other trick you can think of. Alternatively just grab the holds and pull as hard as you can. In the winter and after heavy rain it is affected by seepage, but once dry it is little affected by showery weather.

The crag consists of two sea caves on the right and a long undercut wall on the left. The right side is tidal and the beach level can vary from year to year. Because of this some of the sitting starts may need a bit of clearing to unearth the starting footholds, but you’ll have your bucket and spade anyway.  Although it is possible to top out, this is unpleasant and most problems finish on good holds or easy ground. Only the main problems are described, there being many eliminates and link-ups.

Approach 10minutes from the road

Drive north out of Ullapool on the A835 and park in a lay-by just before the entrance to Ardmair Point caravan site (NH108984). Walk south along the beach to the crag. Closer but limited parking is available on grass verges above the beach.

From right to left

1 The Gargoyle Problems

Right of the first sea cave are a number of steep juggy problems on the gargoyles.

2 Black Wall Traverse 5

Start on the slab just left of the first cave. Traverse left on breaks and pockets to a high jug on the right wall of the second cave. Pullover to finish. The secret is getting your feet to stick.

3 Cave Problem 6C+

One for the lover of damp caves and slick rock. From a thin vertical crack jump for a high crimp in the right wall of the cave, match this then head off right into daylight.

4 Undercut Crack 6A Sitter

On the left wall of the second cave is a slanting crack. Start with hands in a rectangular niche in the crack and go straight up. Often wet.

5 Stones and Seaweed 6A+ Sitter

Another slow drying problem just to the left. Start undercutting the crack, span left for a shallow pocket, then slap up for a good finishing jug. Harder with a high beach level, so get digging…

6 White Jug 3

Pullover onto the slab using a white jug. Not the best problem here…

7 The Pockets 6A+ Sitter

Start with left hand on a three-finger pocket at the top of a thin, vertical seam. Up slightly rightwards to a shallow pocket, gain better holds above and pull over. This is another problem that varies with the beach level.

8 The Ledge 4 Sitter

Start sitting just left of the undercut nose and finish standing on the ledge.

9 Warm-up Wall 3 The wall left The Ledge has a couple of problems on juggy breaks. The sitting start goes at 6B, starting with a wee nick for the right hand.

10 The Pebbledash Roof 5 Sitter

From a good slot, go straight over the rectangular roof.

11 Pebbledash Right Hand 6C Sitter

From the same start make a big move out right to the lower break and go along this to gain the ledge.

12 A Right Bulger 6A Sitter

Start with left hand undercutting and right hand on an edge under the bulge. Employ some trickery to reach better holds and pull over. A harder version heads rightwards with a crimpy reach for a small pocket 6B. 

13 Smiley Problem 6A+ Sitter

From a good pocket on the lip. Gain the smiley hold and the crimp to its right, then slap up to a satisfyingly good hold and pullover to finish. 6B+ with a blindfold!

14 Frown 6C Sitter

Starting with the right hand on a crimpy pinch on the lip and left hand on a sharp hold on the underside of the roof, make moves up and rightwards to gain the ‘nose’ feature and an easier finish.

15 Jumping Bristletails 6B Sitter

Sitter From a tiny corner make a weird twisting reach out for a hold below a blocky jug. Gain the blocky jug then finish straight up on more jugs.

Youzyernee

Halfway along the undercut section is a square-cut lower section. The next problem starts here.

16 Youzyernee 6A Sitter

From a cramped start, using well-chalked crimps on the left wall of a small corner, span out to the big half-moon jug on the lip and continue upwards on good holds.

17 Watch Your Back 6B Sitter

Starting from a horizontal rail, gain a flake in the middle of the roof, snatch to a fat pinch with the left hand, reach a good hold on the lip and finish straight up.

18 Watch Your Back Right Hand 6B Sitter

From the roof flake press out right, gain the half-moon jug and a variety of finishes.

19 Changing the Locks 6C Sitter

From the rail gain two crimps in the roof then crank hard for the break. Finish up a flake.

20 Boulder Ding 6B+ Sitter

The furthest left problem. Starting from a good undercut, make some excellent moves to gain good holds over the lip. The smooth sloping shelf is out of bounds. Don’t forget to apologise when your feet cut lose and hit your spotter in the chest.

Watch Your Back 6B

21 Cup Run 6C+ Sitter

A hybrid problem starting as for Watch Your Back. Make a move left along the rail and get the crimps on Changing… then continue leftwards following a line of holds to a jug. Finish by pulling over the lip on jugs. The ledge on the far left is a no no. A harder version gains the crimps from the roof flake of Watch Your Back.

22 The Grand Traverse 6B

Start with hands on The Ledge. Follow breaks left until past The Pebbledash Roof, drop down until feet are on the lip, then continue left following the lowest line of good holds and flakes above the lip. Finish on a yellow ledge. If successful then skim a few stones and watch the sun go down. Slightly harder from left to right. If you stay high all the way it’s about 5+.

23 The Lower Traverse 6C Sitter

Start at A Right Bulger. Go left, undercutting and using small holds on the lip of the roof, until able to gain the half-moon jug. Continue crimping left along the lower section until better holds lead to a finish on the yellow ledge. A harder version down climbs Watch Your Back, then finishes along Cup Run at 7A+. Award yourself an local's badge for that one.

24 Tricky Lippy 7b+ Sitter

From the pocket of Smiley Problem go left along the lip without using the back wall. Crux is at the start involving small crimps and a cunning sequence with feet.