Essential bouldering equipment: The Tarpaulin.

Bouldering Weather in Scotland dictates you have to be prepared for any situation. Here we make use of the humble tarpaulin to shield the rock from passing showers.

Once the shower passes friction resumes like magic.

The Potential Seven. Torridon.

It took a visit from the Canadian Kevin Wilkinson to squeeze this boulder problem into submission.

The Potential Seven. Torridon. Scotland from North West Outdoors on Vimeo.

Essential Ticks For The North West Cragsperson No 1 Enigma Grooves

Stac Pollaidh

Stac Pollaidh is Ullapool's most fabulous miniature mountain. A favourite with tourists, walkers and climbers alike. By far the most popular climber's route is the excitingly named Jack the Ripper. With rough clean rock, good protection and comfy belay ledges, it's three stars for sure. All very....nice. But maybe a bit dull. What we need is a route with more character, like the classic mountaineering struggle of Enigma Grooves. The grade is E1, but it's the kind of route that a VS leader might get up, while an E4 leader might be defeated. Work that one out.

The first long pitch of Enigma Grooves

The crux pitch. Now you know how to do it!

Glen Golly and Bealach Horn

This absorbing loop east of Arkle in North West Scotland takes in some amazing countryside, combined with some interesting riding on a mountain bike.

Starting just north of Achfary this circuit follows the same start to Arkle before breaking east up through the Bealach na Feithe down to Gobernuisgach lodge then taking a left turn heading up into Glen Golly. A single track then takes you back west through some rough terrain before you lose all the height your legs have fought for by dropping down next to An Dubh loch where you're then faced with a punishing climb to the Bealach Horn. Once here it's 5km of down hill the whole way.

Well worth the effort. 

Ben Stack in the distance from the Bealach na Feithe. 

Looking back up to the Bealach with Coire an Achaidh on the left.

Heading up Glen Golly you eventually have to deal with this steep climb on Creag Dubh. Hopefully you've packed your Chris Hoy legs because now is the time to deploy them.

Ben Hope 

Heading west towards Creagan Meall Horn with the Bealach Horn to its right.

Strath Dionard

An Dubh Loch below Creagan Meall Horn

The Bealach Horn climb. Hopefully you packed a 2nd set of Chris Hoy legs.

Arkle

Yank the Mank

Here at North West Outdoors we take our crag maintenance seriously

 Zero tolerance for rust is our zeitgeist   

So it was a busy day at Goat Crag today, replacing nasty old rusting alloy and steel with sparkling stainless steel.

A spokesman from the Wester Ross Sport Climbing Association said "We fully support the North West Outdoor's campaign. It's only the tireless efforts of these incredible, selfless volunteers that makes Wester Ross such a world class venue. Yank the mank"

Clean Cut Crag

North Facing NC 053243  Semi-Tidal

Clean Cut Crag Photo by Richie Bertts

Clean Cut Crag is a lovely short gneiss sea-cliff, situated on the coast north of Lochinver. It's great for escaping the heat and the midges shouldn't be a problem. When you've had enough climbing head for Achmelvich beach for a swim. 

From Lochinver head north on the B 869 and after about 2 miles turn left for Achmelvich. Park near the entrance to Achmelvich Camp site and either walk through the camp site and follow the coastline southwards or head roughly westwards over the hill (slightly quicker, but rougher ground). It takes about 15mins. The crag's main features are a prominent smooth central corner, and several sharp angular grooves and arêtes.

1 Hed Kandi 8m VS 4c *

At the seaward (north) end of the easy descent shelf, there is a short wall facing the main crag, with a corner on its right. This gains and climbs the left arête.

2 Stereo Sushi 7m Severe

The short but very pleasant corner right of Hed Kandi.

3 Snappy Carrot 12m E1 5c *

At the shorter left end of the main crag is a deep hanging slot. Climb an easy lower groove to the roof and cross this with difficulty to finish up the slot, pulling out right on good holds at the top.

4 Calypso 14m E4 6a **

The fine bottomless corner left of Flawless. Bold moves in the upper half, protected adequately with RPs.

5 Flawless 16m E7 6c ***

The second arête from the left, the first being bottomless. This is Scotland’s answer to Master’s Edge and it was first ascended by the infamous Jules Lines. Climb the prominent arête, first on the left and then on the right, to a big jug and gear just above. Take a deep breath and layback the arête on it's right side with commitment and technical finesse. Staying on the left after the jug is better protected but you only get E6 for this.

You can see a clip of Richie Betts on the E6 version Here

6 Flightless 18m E3 5c **

The next arête right of Flawless. Climb the arête to a bulge. Move left and pull into a fine jamming crack which leads to an easier upper slab.

7 Faithless 15m E3 6a **

The groove line right of Flightless. Needs low tide.

8 Unnamed 8m VS 5a *

At the top right end of the cliff are two clean corners above a slabby platform half-way up the cliff. Ab to the platform and climb the left corner, which has a crack on its right wall. Just when it starts to get hard, a ledge on the right arête can be reached.

M-Day!

Sorry, but it's that time of year again. Be afraid, the midgapocalypse is coming...

Get yourself some Smidge.

And check the midge forecast

The late, great Kenneth McKellar tells you all you need to know.